The eyes stare into the camera's lens. The gaze is framed by delicately positioned hands that cup the face. Both palms rest gently against the cheeks. The thumbs are tucked beneath the jawline while the remaining fingers create a soft frame around the lower portion of the face. The textural details are amplified — fine lines etched into fingertips, subtle variations in skin tone, natural contours. Light catches the surface of the eyes, revealing tiny reflections that hint at a photographer's presence. The lips remain closed in a neutral expression, neither smiling nor frowning, allowing the eyes to carry the weight of communication. A small mark below the eyebrow adds character to an already compelling visage.
— Tony Agbapuonwu
NOIR 40 was created in my studio and is part of the Noirs series (2000–2001), marking a turning point in my photography. I began to explore the texture of black-and-white photography to emphasize the pride and strength of Black people. I work with contemporary figures from daily life, family, and friends. I'm interested in what they radiate, their struggle, challenges and resilience. From the framework I create we build together on mutual respect and shared vision. I highlight the symbolic and aesthetic dimension through harmonious compositions.
NOIR 40 is restrained and intimate, quite minimalistic and close to the skin. I set aside all accessories used in earlier works. Contrasts remain, but white exists only within black—to express Black identity in its purest, most intimate form and reveal the individuality of the sitter. My aim is to deconstruct and break stereotypes about the identity of the black woman by showing her dignity and inner strength.
It’s said that an image is worth a thousand words, and I believe photography has the power to touch the deepest of our soul. It’s a universal language that transcends all boundaries, race, cultural baggage, and gender. What interests me is not just taking pictures, but making them. What story do I want to tell—shaping meaning, and building a relationship with the model. Photography is my way of expressing, questioning, inspiring, and shifting perception.
It allows me to marvel at the world—and invite others to do the same. It has shaped who I am, given me perspective, and helped me develop a creative conscience. I see it as a legacy to pass on to future generations. I want the viewer to look at my photographs and to dazzle in that particular moment of encounter with the artwork that can move you, make you marvel, to question, and lift you up.
Born in Cameroon and educated in France, Angéle Etoundi Essamba graduated from the Fotovakschool in Amsterdam and holds a bachelor's degree in art history. Her practice centers on reflecting upon the experiences and identity of the Black woman, dismantling stereotypical representations while elevating her subjects through an artistic lens that is simultaneously aesthetic, idealistic, and societal. Her photographs have been widely exhibited in museums, institutions, galleries, art fairs, and biennials internationally. Notable acquisitions include her work NOIR 40, which entered the collection of the National Museum of Women in the Arts (NMWA) in Washington, DC. Represented by SMO Contemporary in Lagos, Nigeria, Etoundi Essamba reached a significant milestone in 2025—the 40th anniversary of her photographic journey celebrating the Black woman, Africa, and its diaspora through humanist photography. This four-decade commitment will be honored with a major retrospective exhibition at the Nederlandse Fotomuseum in Rotterdam from January through March 2026, accompanied by a book publication from an independent publisher. See more of Etoundi Essamba’s work on her website and instagram.
